Or....if you have one of those fancy phones....you can scan this...
Or....if you have one of those fancy phones....you can scan this...
I recently added another tab on the navigation bar above named "Mavic Info". There you will find Mavic tech manuals, photos to help ID what model and/or year your wheels are, FAQ's, and more. There isn't a day that goes by that I get several emails regarding Mavic parts availability, wheel ID, and the like. Hopefully, this page will help. The current offerings include but are not limited to spokes, parts, rims, and tools for Ksyrium, Crossmax, R-SYS, etc. I also do special orders if you need something that I do not have listed. Hit me up if you need anything. Thanks!
I received this email last week and I felt compelled to share most of it...
Last month I was fortunate enough to attend the 2014 NAHBS show in Charlotte North Carolina and I was glad that I did. Near the top of my list of "to do" list was visiting the Campagnolo booth. It was actually one of the first that I visited that Friday morning. I ended up stopping by to chat with the good folks there several more times that weekend. I asked them to convince me why the axial movement is acceptable and to give me a reason to stop producing the shim kits. All of the discussions that we had were worthwhile for me and at times both enlightening and confusing. Here are some of my take-aways from the conversations...
After digesting all of the information while at the same time trying my best to keep an open mind, I concluded that they have choosen not to address the issue of eliminating the axial movement. This being said, I have come up with an "alternative" method for reducing the axial movement and thus hopefully eliminating any noise that is the result of the axial movement. This is a "half-step" compaired to the complete removal of the wave/spring washer and might be easier to swallow for the die-hard loyalists and can't accept the complete removal of the wave washer because it hasn't gotten the approval from Vicenza. Here's "Plan B":
For bikes on the lower end of the allowable shell width variance and/or bikes that have noticable axial movement, you can add the shims externally (like the original process) while still using the wavy washer the way it was designed to be used. This method effectively adds preload to the bearings via the wave washer by increasing the shell width by way of the external shims. This process might take longer because you would probably have to test ride the bike in order to find out if you added enough shims to increase the preload to decrease the axial movement. Keep in mind that since wave washers will lose their "set" over time, you might have to add a shim (or combination of shims) sometime down the road.
To wrap this post up, I still believe that the original process of removing the wave washer and adding external shims is the better way to address this issue. I was grateful that the guys at the Campagnolo booth took the time to talk "shop" with me. The love for Campagnolo at NAHBS was almost palpable throughout the hall...and it's obvious why!
I do bike repairs, maintenance, and custom builds. The majority of my jobs involve road and multi-sport but I also work on a lot of CX and mountain bikes. Here in CLE, I seem to have cornered the “problem solver” market. By this I mean that I get the bikes that have an issue that the local bike shops can’t solve.
I’m an alternative to taking your bike to a bike shop. I am by all means not anti LBS. Some of them are my best customers. The fact of the matter is that most local bike shops focus more on sales and recreational bikes and just do not have the time and the resources to maintain and/or troubleshoot high end bikes. That’s where I come in.
I am a BBI Certified Mechanic with over 26 years experience. I've been told that I take what I do too seriously... guilty as charged. I believe that without trust you have nothing. Trust is earned, not assumed. What I do is built upon trust and integrity. You can be the best mechanic in the world, but if you can’t be trusted, you’re worthless.
In order to get the ball rolling in ATL, I’m offering a special price for my Complete Tune. If you book a Complete Tune for January 18-19th, you will get $50 off. This is a huge deal. Additionally, I am working on a referral reward program. I’ll get those details out as soon as possible. In the mean time, hit me up with any questions.
The Complete Tune is by far the most popular maintenance package that I am asked to do at least annually on my clients bikes. Since it seems like everyone does different things when it comes to tune-ups or overhauls, I figured that it would be a good thing to list exactly what I do. By doing this, you know exactly what you are getting.
1. Inspection of the frame and fork for any damage.
2. Inspection of the chain, cassette, and chainrings for wear and/or damage.
3. Inspection of remaining components including headset, bottom bracket, pedals, cables and housing sections for wear and/or damage.
4. Inspection of wheels and tires for wear and/or damage.
5. Inspection of bars, stem, seatpost, and all related fasteners for any damage.
6. Contact owner with estimate if anything needs to be replaced or with any other concerns that would add to the initial quoted estimate.
7. Remove chain, cassette, crankset, rear derailleur, and front derailleur and place in Crest Ultrasonic cleaner*.
8. Clean frame, fork, and brake calipers.
9. Apply initial coat of spray wax onto frame and fork.
10. Clean both front and rear wheels as best as possible.
11. Adjust hubs and true wheels.
12. Remove chain, cassette, crankset, derailleurs from ultrasonic cleaner.
13. Dry drivetrain components and apply lubricant to all pivot points.
14. Install cassette back onto rear wheel.
15. Apply high quality grease onto spindle and install crankset.
16. Check rear derailleur hanger alignment and correct if necessary.
17. Install both front and rear derailleurs back onto frame.
18. Install wheels.
19. Install chain and apply chain lubricant.
20. Reattach cables to both front and rear derailleurs and make adjustments to limit screws, cable tension, and alignment.
21. Adjust both the cable tension, caliper and pad alignment of front and rear brakes.
22. Adjust heaset.
23. Inspect and torque all stem bolts to manufacturers specification.
24. Apply final coat of wax onto frame and fork.
25. Inflate tires to manufacturers recommend pressure.
26. Test ride bike.
* Very few shops have an ultrasonic cleaner. The Crest Ultrasonics model that I use is heated, which makes for more effective cleaning. Additionally, I use a biodegradable detergent.
For a list of my other labor rates, here's a link to my service menu.
After bouncing the idea around in my head for quite some time, it is finally going down. I am excited about the opportunities and potential for growth in Atlanta, so I’m heading South. Here's the scoop so far...
When: January 18th-19th, 2013
Where: Still to be determined. I can say that for now, it's going to be inside the Perimeter.
How: By appointment only, with limited availability. Contact me to reserve your spot as soon as possible. Pick-up and delivery service will be added in the future once I get up and running- for now I will need for you to drop your bike off at a location TBD. If this works out, I can see being in Atlanta 8-10 times a year
My MO is to provide a verbal estimate, and then require verbal approval before I start working on your bike. Estimates will typically be given when you drop off your bike, but there are situations in which I will need to do a more detailed inspection of your bike. If this is the case, I will contact you with the estimate as soon as possible, and will only proceed once you’ve approved. To get an idea of my rates, here's a link to my service menu. Like I tell my new clients here in CLE, I expect to earn your trust...I do not assume it. I'm looking forward to building new relationships within the cycling and multi-sport community in Atlanta.
Lastly, If my schedule allows, I might also have a meet and greet at a local adult beverage establishment during one of the evenings that I'm there. Follow me on Twitter at @RogueMechanic for any updates or announcements. To book an appointment for your bike, email me at firstname.lastname@example.org or call me at 440-503-6257.
Here's a list of Mavic spokes and other replacement parts that I currently have available at my online store that can be found here. or you can click on "Store" on the menu bar above.
Mavic Zircal spokes for Ksyrium SSC, SL, ES, Premium, SR, and SLR wheels:
120-302-01- Bladed, Black
120-303-01 - Bladed, Black
120-304-01 - Bladed, Black
324-178-01 - Bladed, Black
324-179-01 - Bladed, Black
324-180-01 - Bladed, Black
324-181-01 - Bladed, Silver
324-182-01 - Bladed, Silver
324-183-01 - Bladed, Silver
323-456-01 - Bladed, Silver
323-457-01 - Bladed, Silver
323-458-01 - Bladed, Silver**
M40679 - Bladed, Black
Mavic Tracomp Spokes for R-SYS wheels:
Mavic Zircal Spokes for Crossmax SL, SL Disc, SLR, XL, XL Disc, SX, UST, and UST Disc wheels:
308-642-01 - Swaged, Black
308-641-01 - Swaged, Black
995-376-01 - Bladed, Black
995-377-01 - Bladed, Black
995-378-01 - Bladed, Black
995 392 01 - Bladed, Silver
995 393 01 - Bladed, Silver
995 394 01 - Bladed, Silver
M40743 - Bladed, Silver
M40745 - Bladed, Silver
M40751 - Bladed, Silver
M40753 -Bladed, Silver
M40755 - Bladed, Silver
M40715 - Round, Black
M40727 - Round, Black
M40729 - Round, Black
M40731 - Round Black
995 437 01 - Round, Grey
995 438 01 - Round, Grey
M40482 - Bladed, Black
M40483 - Bladed, Black
M40484 - Bladed, Black
M40689 - Bladed, Black
M40690 - Bladed, Black
M40683 - Bladed, Black
M40684 - Bladed. Black
M40685 - Bladed, Black
Mavic Freehub bodies, seals, pawls and spring kits, bearings, small parts, tools, etc.:
995 000 01
324 303 01
324 130 01
996 079 01
If you don't see what you need, send me an email and I'll see if I have it in my inventory or I might be able to order if for you if it's still available from Mavic. Check back often because it seems that I'm always adding to my Mavic spokes and parts inventory.
Recently it was broght to me attention via a comment (thanks Ken!) that it's been several years since I originally got into this Campy UT mess. Ken wanted to know if there has been any updates regarding the issue with the axial movement or the approach to the fix using the shims. Well, as of now, Campagnolo is still choosing to ignore the problem that some folks (quite a few actually...) are continuing to have. In the meantime, I'm still getting emails and comments about it. To date, I have yet to hear from anyone who has installed the shim kit without it fixing the noise and axial movement problem. So, until Campagnolo comes up with a solution, I'll continue to make these shim kits and send them out to Campy users here in the USA and abroad (well over a dozen countries so far).
I recently added an installation video that can be found here.
p.s. Because of the number recent requests requests, I am finally moving forward getting shims made for PF30 and BB30 for Ultra Torque. Shims for BB86 are in the pipeline.
Thanks for checking in. -John