How does a Mavic Freehub Body wear out?
So you spent a lot of money on a set of Mavic Ksyrium or Crossmax wheels that are by the way, arguably the best bang for the buck wheels currently available that you can both train AND race on, and in a season or so of riding, you start experiencing some shifting issues that are not the easiest to diagnose. These issues can range from noise to skipping, but usually both. Well, what's up?!?! If you're lucky you or an astute mechanic realizes that the freehub body is exhibiting a significant amount of side play. Again, you ask yourself,
"What's up?!?!"
"Why is this happening with my relatively "new" wheels?"
OK...here's the scoop.
Exhibit 1: This is a photo of two Mavic freehub bodies. The one on the left has been used for only one season of riding and a few races. The one on the right is new. It's hard to visually see any differences besides scratches, discoloration and the like, but where the difference is is in the thickness of the whitish nylon bushing... The used freehub body is is really bad shape. I know, that it's hard to tell without accurately measuring it, but the first indication of it's condition was the side play that it had with the cassette still installed on it. The reason for this wear is the degradation or wearing down of the nylon. This happens from normal riding but is accelerated by contaminants such as road grit, salt, and also by some types of greases or lubricants. Mineral oil is the only lubricant that should be used. The Mavic tech department uses Pedro's Road Rage which is essentially mineral oil. All of this being said, the easiest way to determine if your Mavic freehub body is shot is to grab hold of the largest cog on your cassette and try to move it inboard and outboard. There shouldn't be any noticeable play. The more there is, the more it's worn.
Finally, this leads to the question which I know most of you want to ask... "Why did this thing wear out so quickly?!?!"
Here's the bottom line...these are pro-level wheels that, like others in this price range,are not designed to last forever. There's a cost for this level of quality. You can spend a lot less on another set of wheels that won't have this issue, but they're going to be a downgrade of quality and you won't be thrilled with the performance and the additional grams... That's all that I have to say about this. I have to get back to work. Thanks for reading! -John
This is great information. Other than needing to have them trued, I’ve never had a one problem with my 2002 Mavic Ksyrium SSL’s. But tonight I’m going to check them for any noticeable play.
I assume that the nylon bushings can be replaced?
Thanks and keep the blogs coming.
Don
Posted by: Don | May 25, 2006 at 11:50 AM
Hello Don,
Thanks for your comment. Unfortunately, the bushing "is one" with the rest of the freehub body. So you would need to get a freehub body. Thanks again for writing and for checking in. -John
Posted by: RogueMechanic | May 25, 2006 at 04:59 PM
So replacement freehub bodies are easily available? Maybe QBP?
Would think it a pain to call France for those bits..
Posted by: Dave | May 27, 2006 at 10:03 AM
this is why i'm getting away from mavic. rogue is so right. they initially made this stuff for pros who would only use it for a season and dump it. do you really think that the pros would deal with such a thing? no. they get new crap for the new season. and then we think its so cool, and pick it up, and we are left holding the bag.
Posted by: divine gear | May 28, 2006 at 09:00 AM
i have this problem..
if i replace freehub, how can i prevent this or lenghten the life of the hub. my wheels have 2000 miles on them and rode in rain once about 50 miles, rest on good roads.
also does anyone make replacements that have bearings like the old ones?
kARL
Posted by: karl | July 10, 2006 at 05:03 PM
Thanks for the info! this may have been just what I was looking for...and didnt know it. I have around 2000 miles on my Ksyrium Elites. I noticed a drag effect and the wheels do not coast (hand spinning) as they used to. Also, there is a seldom "crack" or "pop" noise and the drivetrain skips forward a notch. i thought this was a chain or cassette issue and replaced them...still happens. Is this the freehub body skipping?
Cheers
Posted by: kipp | July 28, 2006 at 01:55 PM
Thanks for all of your comments...
Dave: Mavic USA usually has them in stock...
Divine: I hear ya brother... The wheels do work well though...they just don't have the life span that I like to see ...
Karl: The only option is a standard replacement freehub body from Mavic. I have no issues with any other part of the wheels. You should be good for thousands of miles...
Kipp: It could very well be the freehub skiping... It might just need cleaning...
Posted by: RogueMechanic | August 07, 2006 at 11:32 AM
hi- i just re-mineral-oiled the freehub assembly of an older pair of xmax sl. the cassette has the play you are speaking of, yet the it seems the play is coming from the body itself, ie, perhaps the body being worn out? the cassette is new this summer. but the body doesn't look noticably worn. how long/many miles do you think the body will last?
Posted by: miss t | December 29, 2006 at 01:48 PM
Hello Miss T:
Thanks for visiting my blog and for writing. I'll attempt to resolve your issue with the info that you provided...
Being "older Crossmax SL's", when you removed the freehub body to apply the mineral oil, did the freehub body look like the one's pictured in this post (did it have the yellowish bushing) or a cartridge bearing? If it had the bushing, I've seen them last only one season of hard riding... It's very difficult to see any wear because what wears is the internal nylon bushing...
You also need to make sure that you installed all of you proper spacers when you installed the new cassette...I've seen that happen before. I hope that this info helps. Feel free to write if you have any other questions. -John
Posted by: RogueMechanic | January 03, 2007 at 11:07 AM
John: I was told by a local bike shop that Mavic uses a snythetic motor oil for lubricant....is thier truth to this....can to much oil be used....that is a great illistration of a comparison of good and bad....
Thanks
Dan
Posted by: Dan Martin | January 15, 2007 at 10:25 AM
Hello Dan,
I doubt that there's any truth in that. That's not to say that it wouldn't work... My concern would be any reaction it might have with any of the seals, etc...Mavic has recommended for years the use of "mineral oil" as a lubricant for the freehub body/pawls. This being said, there are many viscosities of mineral oil. I've been told by the folks at the Mavic USA tech department that they use Pedros Road Rage, which is a med-to-light weight mineral oil based lubricant. I can vouch that the Road Rage works well.
Because of the nature of the mineral oil, it's very difficult to use too much...it will just drain. I hope that this info helps. Thanks for your comment! -John
Posted by: RogueMechanic | January 16, 2007 at 04:32 PM
How do I remove my Mavic Ksyrium ES freehub body?
Posted by: Darin | January 27, 2007 at 09:24 PM
"How do I remove my Mavic Ksyrium ES freehub body?"
With your fingers trust me it's very easy just make sure you don't loose the 2 springs for each paw, or the small washer between the 2 drive side bearings.
Posted by: Richard Cabezza | February 14, 2007 at 12:29 PM
I was changing the freehub on my 2004 Crossmax SL and have a 2006 Freehub mavic part M40592, but it is slightly longer than my old one so that the cassette does not tighten. I thought it was for the Crossmax as well. Do I have to find a different freehub or are there spacers or something else wrong? Thanks
Posted by: skinl19 | March 15, 2007 at 07:31 AM
Never mind, I found the answer. I have the road freehub , the MTB is part number M40580 in case anyone else needs one.
Posted by: skinl19 | March 15, 2007 at 09:44 AM
You beat me to the punch skinl19... Glad you figured it out. Thanks for writing! -John
Posted by: RogueMechanic | March 15, 2007 at 09:58 AM
So is M40592 the correct part for the road wheelset? I have a set of 2002 Ksyrium SSC SL wheels with this problem. Will this be the correct replacement freehub body? Thanks.
Posted by: Tim Vickroy | March 15, 2007 at 04:53 PM
If it is I have one I can sell you ;-)
Posted by: skinl19 | March 16, 2007 at 10:45 AM
Just to re-cap, there is no way of just purchasing the white nylon bushing? No other company sells this? You have to buy a whole new free body hub? If so how much do they run and can you recommend a good site to buy the hub and and new harder pawls?
Appreciate all the info you have provided.
Thanks.
Posted by: Marcus | March 31, 2007 at 01:10 PM
Crossmax XL's
If your cassette hub body has ever skipped a pawl, remove and inspect for small metal shaving, these will help chew up the hub spindle and piss you off.
Here is the fix for all us 2006 and down owners:
1. Buy a set of the 2007 pawls (#32430301)- Harder material (stainless steel, will/should not chip).
2. Buy a new cassette hub body (#M40580) (start fresh)
3. Most important! Buy the new seal (#99500001)! They claim this is the problem, it let's dirt in the hub and this creates a sand paper effect. The big concern is the nylon bushing built on the hub cassette body will grind (w/dirt) away at the hub shaft creating play, thus ruining it!
I think its the seal and soft pawls.
4. Use the Mavic Mineral Oil(I read Pedros Road Rage will work also).
Posted by: Stoner | April 08, 2007 at 08:42 PM
I have a pair of the mavic SSC SL's from around 2000. Do you guys happen to have a contact number for Mavic USA? I've got a grinding noise coming from my rear wheel... The whole bike vibrates when I backpedal at > 30 mph. I'm assuming it's the FTS-L free hub body. Only here the noise at high speed though, but that's not the time to be hearing strange noises from the drivetrain ;) If anyone happens to have the phone number for Mavic USA that would be great. Thx.
Posted by: BikeDuser | April 17, 2007 at 09:49 PM
Ok. I've performed the cleaning of the FTS-L free hub body. Clean it out thoroughly and used the pedros road rage to re-lube all of the relevant parts mentioned in the Mavic article (on the Mavic website). I haven't test ridden my bike yet to see if the noise is still there. If it is I'm going to look into getting a new FTS-L free hub assembly from excel sports in boulder CO. My question is will the 2002 version of the FTS-L free hub assembly work with 2000 rear campy style kysrium SSC SL wheel? The website specifically states that the assembly is for the 2002 version of the wheel. Thanks.
Posted by: BikeDuser | April 18, 2007 at 09:36 PM
Any idea what the inner diameter of the nylon bushing should be? Is that the best way to tell if it is worn?
Posted by: Andy | April 23, 2007 at 02:18 PM
My 2002 Ksyrium SSL wheels were doing the "death squeal" on fast descents, I had disassembled and cleaned the freehub at least twice in the last year, and the problem would diminish, but come back. I read the blog, bought a new freehub and had to put up with the wrench dissing me as a home mechanic, installed the new freehub and the wheel runs as new. THANK YOU!
Posted by: Mike | April 25, 2007 at 01:50 PM
Hello,
I have some 2005 Crossmax SL wheels (I think the hub is very similar to the Ksyrium wheel hubs mentioned) and I have been trying get a new rear axle for it and just have no luck. Do you know what the part number would be? It probably is actually two part numbers since there are two pieces to the axle, one screws into the other. The half from the freehub side broke off when I was tightening it (stupid mistake that I will not repeat again). Do you know where one can obtain parts for Mavic hubs? More specifically for the Crossmax? Any help you can provide my in tracking down this part would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Mike
Posted by: Mike | April 30, 2007 at 01:16 AM