RogueMechanic

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Chain Links: My quick take.

I was recently asked by @justinbrennan on @twitter what my opinions are regarding the different designs or techniques for connecting chains that are currently out there and if I had any preferences.  Well, as you can imagine, I do have some opinions as well as preferences. 

I think that it's best to first preface this with saying that no matter how good the design is, if you do not do the installation properly, you are more than likely going to experience some sort of failure, so do it right.

Let's break this down into brands...

Shimano HG & IG Pins:

I have no issues with this design.  It works for the useful life of the chain... unlike their Quick-Link design issue that I noted here.  I like this simple, low cost design.

Campagnolo C-10 HD Link:

Besides the fact that it's the most costly (approx $30US for just the Link Kit) and the big $'s for the Campy chain tool, it's also the most time/labor intensive design... Hey, you have to pay to play especially when it comes to Campy....  I think that because of this, folks are more likely to do a half-ass chain cleaning job with the chain on the bike instead of the more thorough approach associated with removing the chain.  I'm ok with this, but I have a hard time looking folks in the eye and telling them the cost...

Campagnolo 11s:

See above but more $$$.

SRAM Powerlink:

Simple, cost effective, and it just plain works.  I like it.

SRAM PowerLock:

This connector link for SRAM 10spd chain differs, besides dimensions, from the 9spd Powerlink in the fact that it is not reusable.  I don't have a problem with that.  It works and I like the design.

Wippermann ConneX 9&10:

I just can't get excited enough about this product to use it or even recommend it...as long as there are other options out there.

KMC Missing Link:

See previous comment.

So there you have it.  I hope that this helps, and remember, this is my opinion that is based on first-hand experience.  Thanks for checking in.  -John

Wavewasherectomy - The Ultra-Torque Fix

Before I get started, I want to let you know that some of the steps that I'm

going to recommend you to do contradicts some of  those found in the installation

instructions that is provided by Campagnolo.  It's up to you to decide what you

want to do.  But everything that I recommend doing regarding this procedure, 

 I have tried myself on multiple bikes.  I extensively researched, tested, and re-inspected 

bikes that I did this "wavewasherectomy" on and found zero issues.  I didn't want 

to throw anything out there without being absolutely sure that it works.  Because

that's how I roll...  Anyway, that being said, you can rest assured that if you take the

time to do this right, you will have the Ultra-Torque crankset/bottom bracket

system that is up to Campagnolo standards, without the wave washer.

Disclaimer:  You can have the best bike components in the world, but if they are not

installed and adjusted properly,  they're not going to perform up to the level that

they were designed to work.  For this to procedure to be successful, it's imperative

that this is done correctly.  I will try to be as concise as possible.  If you have any 

questions, do not hesitate to email me.

Ok... Let's get started.

Since this evolves around eliminating the wave washer, there needs to be something

added to the equation to make up for it and the variations in bottom bracket shell

width.  This is is achieved by adding a combination of spacers between the non-drive 

side cup and the frame.  In fact, every bike that I did this to required unique combinations of spacers. 

This takes a lot of time and effort.  Take your time to get it right.

Assuming that you already have the crankset installed on your bike, you are going to have

to remove it along with the bottom bracket.  Obviously, you are going to

need the right tools.  You can get the .pdf installation file from Campagnolo here.  Just reverse 

the procedure to remove it.  

Once you have the crankset and bottom bracket cups removed from the frame, you want to take the time to clean and inspect the cups and the bearings.  If one or both of the bearings and/or cups look like this (see photos below), then it's time ti replace those items.

   

Strong Suggestion:  Take the time to properly face the bottom bracket shell.  If you do not have to cutting tool, take it to the LBS that you feel is the most competent to do this task and say a prayer that they don't screw it up...

Now you want to go ahead and install the drive side cup as per the instruction manual.  For what it's worth, I have installed numerous UT cups following both the loctite 222 method noted in the instructions and the more traditional grease-the-heck-out-of-it method.  For the record, I prefer using grease (or anti-seize) and torquing to 35-40Nm.  Partially install the retaining spring onto the cup and then after liberally applying a high quality grease to the bearing and internal surfaces of the cup, install the drive-side crankarm fully into the shell.  Now you want to push the retaining spring ends into the corresponding holes.

This is where I abruptly veer from the SOP described in the official Campy instructions....

 Step 1

Install the non-drive side cup dry (i.e. without any grease). Thread cup into the shell just to the point where it comes into contact with the face of the bottom bracket shell. DO NOT TIGHTEN.

 Step 2

Fully insert the left side crank arm, without the wave washer, making sure that the crankarms are properly aligned.  (It's easier/cleaner to not apply grease to the bearing and cup at this point, so don't bother.)  Insert the fixing bolt into right side (drive-side) semi-axle and torque to 42Nm. At this point, the NDS or left bottom bracket cup and crankarm should look like this (See Fig. 1):

Step 3

Now you want to unscrew the NDS/left cup to the point where it contacts the crankarm (See Fig. 2). This is possible because of the dimension/thickness of wave washer is no longer part of the equation.

Step 4

I have found that instead of using feeler gauges to determine the amount of gap that's between the cup and the shell, it's better to find the size of the gap by using different combinations of shims contained in the kit.  Keep in mind that at this point, we are only getting our first estimate of the amount of space that has to be made up. So grab the shims and find the combination that best fits (See Fig. 3).  Set this combination of shims aside and write the thickness of the shims down so that you have your starting point.  Note:  I recommend using at least one of the 1.0mm shims and then add one .5mm shim, etc., going from thickest to thinest. If you try to add one .5mm shim to the 1.0mm shim and it doesn't quite fit, replace the .5mm shim with two .2mm shims... I think that you get the idea.

Step 5

Now you want to remove the fixing bolt (from the drive-side/right semi-spindle), the left crankarm, and the left bottom bracket cup from the frame.

Step 6

Insert the combination of shims that you determined in step 4 (and steps 9 and     10) onto the left bottom bracket cup, and thread back into frame (still without grease/antiseize, etc.). With the bottom bracket tool, tighten cup to 35Nm-40Nm. If you do not have access to a torque wrench, just snug it up without going crazy...

Step 7

Reinstall the left crankarm as described in step 2 or in the Campagnolo    installation instructions.

Step 8

Now this is where we need to get picky... We want this to be balls-on, or as close to balls-on that we can get.  This is when we determine if we have to add more thickness to the equation, or remove some.  Usually with the first attempt, I find that I have to add... If the crankset spins freely (move the chain out of the way), then you know that you have not added too much thickness in spacers.  So either you have nailed it the first time, or you need to add more because of axial play...

Step 9

The way that you determine if you have any play or side-to-side movement is by grabbing onto the left crankarm and either the seattube or downtube and moving the crankarm towards and away from the frame, or perpendicular to the frame. Sensitivity to movement is key here...If you feel just some movement or play, you will need to add to the thickness of the shims.  Add in small increments because it's easier to add thickness and decrease the play than it is to add too much.  Important:  It is crucial that you do not add too many shims.  Adding too much thickness could lead to damage to the bearings and not allow the Hirth joint to completely come together as designed which in turn could lead to failure. It's not difficult to get this right.  For example: If you started with one 1.0mm and two 0.2mm shims for a total of 1.4mm of shim thickness, and you still have some play/movement, I would replace the two 0.2mm shims with one 0.5mm shim giving you 1.5mm of shim thickness...and so forth.  So, if you feel some movement, you need to go back to step 5, make the shim adjustments while doing step 6 and then complete step 7. 

Step 10

Check for axial movement as described in step 9 above.  If there still is some movement (which should be less than before), then add to the thickness, and repeat steps, 5,6, and 7.  (Chances are that you will get to the point when the crank is too tight and/or binds against the left cup.  If this occurs, just subtract the smallest amount of shim thickness that you can.)  If you do not have any side movement.... You're done!!! Well... not really, but almost... Proceed to step 11.

Step 11

Now that you have determined the correct amount of shims, go back one last time the step 5. While completing step 6, apply grease/anti-seize to left cup and bottom bracket shell threads and then tighten left cup to torque spec mentioned above.  Finally, when you are doing step 7, apply a good amount of high quality grease to the internal cup surfaces and the bearing.  Make sure that you insert the fixing bolt into the right side semi-axle and tighten to 42Nm. (See Fig. 4)

    Congrats!  You are done!  Now all that you have to do is clean up.  

Click on photos for larger images.

   

The RogueMechanic Wavewasherectomy Shim kit is available here.  

 The kit contains the following:

• 2 - 1.0mm Stainless Steel Shims
• 2 - 0.5mm Stainless Steel Shims
  
• 2 - 0.2mm Stainless Steel Shims
  
• 2 - 0.1mm Stainless Steel Shims
  

Available now for English Bottom Brackets.

Coming Soon... Wavewasherectomy Shim Kits for Italian Bottom Brackets!

Made in U.S.A.

I hope that this helps.  Based on the volume of emails and comments that I received about this issue, I believe that there are more people experiencing Campagnolo Ultra-Torque problems than those few folks on some of the cycling forums would like for you to believe.  I really appreciate your patience and all of the kind comments that I have received here and via email.  If you have questions, just let me know.

Campagnolo Ultra-Torque Solution - Pt. 1 Review

Way back in September of 2008, I published my initial post about what I thought was a problem with the Ultra-Torque design. Now going on a year later, I am even more confident with my initial theory. But now I have a solid solution to the problem that some who have a Campagnolo Ultra-Torque crankset/bottom bracket may have experienced. 

First, I want to make a couple points...

1. I will not deny that for the most part, Ultra-Torque is a good design.  Where it fails is in its capability to allow for shell width variances.  This may seem like a a minor flaw, but it has major consequences.  
2. For the life of me, in this day and age, and with all of the current technology, why can't frame manufactures make their 68mm bottom bracket shells 68mm and their 70mm shells 70mm?!?! If this was the case, there wouldn't be a need for the wavy washer in the Ultra-Torque design.
3. The wavy washer is a legit component in certain applications in many industries. But in this instance, it's a band-aid.
4. If it's OK to have axial or lateral movement to the non-drive side, why is the Ultra-Torque design the ONLY design out there that has this movement?  If any of the other systems exhibit this movement, it means that either the bearings are shot, or you didn't install the proper bottom bracket and/or spacers.

Based of the volume of emails and comments I have been receiving about this "non-issue", I believe that it's fairly common.  Over the last few months, I have applied my "fix" to several bikes.  All with success.  The end result has been a very smooth, very stiff, axial-movement free Ultra-Torque system.  Just now I believe Campagnolo wanted to be. Next up, step by step details.  Thanks for checking in.  -John

Coming Soon...Campagnolo Ultra-Torque update!!!

If you can believe it, finally I am really close to posting my official solution to the Campagnolo Ultra-Torque "non-issue" that I came upon several months ago.  I will have a post with details including step by step instructions on how to correct the issue that doesn't exist (this is directed towards all of those who showed me sooooo much love on a few cycling forums...).  I will also have Parts Kits available for purchase.  I'm trying to come up with a cute/serious name for the kit... Currently, all I can come up with is the RogueMechanic Wavywasherectomy Kit.... I kinda like it.  

H2O + Bearings = Trouble

Most bikes that I come across for some reason do not have drain holes in the bottom bracket area of the frame. Most frames allow water to collect in the bottom bracket with nowhere to go. This results in the bottom bracket component sitting in water, which isn't good. Below are just a few examples of what I'm talking about...

As you can see, the results are generally not good. If you catch it early enough, you might not have to replace anything. This will depend on the design of the component and the lenght of time it was submerged.

For some reason, it's more common to find drain holes of some sort in euro frames than domestic. This leaves me scratching my bald head... How difficult would it be to add a drain hole under the bottom bracket (at the lowest point I must add because not all of the drain holes that I do find are at the lowest part of the frame...)? I have been known to fabricate a way to allow drainage without doing anything to the frame that will void the warranty. Anyway, the moral of the story is that if you seem to regularly get caught riding in wet weather and your bike doesn't have drain holes located in the area of the bottom bracket, I would recomend that you have it checked out by your favorite mechanic. If you're lucky, the bearings will be fine the cups will not be corroded in the bottom bracket....