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May 25, 2006



I have a SL SSC Mavic free hub with campy casette. I have just re bushed my mavic free hub and the bushing and hub seem good now. The problem is the casette is still rocking significantly. I think it is coming from the area where the casette splines into the free hub!! is it possible that the outer splines on the free hub are worn to cause the rocking or is it more likely it is the casette that engages the splines??. I havnt heard of anybody mentioning this problem which surprises me?? The casette is rocking to the extent the chain is jumping under load!




Hello Nuno, I hope that all is well with you. Regarding your question about using a road hub for your Crossmax wheel, I highly doubt that it would work. You might try to contact Mavic to make sure. You might also want to ask them if they have a replacement hub for your Crossmax wheel. I hope that this info helps. Thanks for writing! -John

Nuno Pinto

Hi there,
I own a pair of MAVIC CROSSMAX SRL.
It has been really hard to find a replacement hub here in Europe.
I found one that is specked for road wheels. Do those fit on the mountain bike wheels ?


Hello again Erik. The short answer is yes it can definitely contribute to the chain jumping/skipping under load. Double check that there isn't excessive cassette, chain, or chainring wear as well as there isn't an rear derailleur/hanger alignment issue. FYI, if you are going to order a replacement freehub body, be aware that Mavic specs the Shimano/SRAM ROAD freehub body (part #: M40592)instead of the mountain version.... I hope that this info helps. Thanks again for checking in. -John

Erik Nash

Ok, another question here. I am working on a coworkers bike that has 4-5 year old Crosslands on it and when you pedal under high torque (standing up) the chain is jumping gears. Chain stretch is not present and the bike shifts with no issues regularly. I found that the frehub body has a lot of play in it. I am suggesting to him that we install a new body based on the years of service, but could this play contribute to gear skipping? I can find no other reasonable cause at this point...


Hello Erik, Yes, it is normal to have a slight amount of play with the amount of miles that you mentioned. I would say that it's not defective. I hope that this info helps and thanks for writing! -John


Is it normal for the freehub to develop play after only 150-200 miles of use, or do they come new with some amount of play?

I have watched the video and just checked to make sure the axle bolt was snugged and I still had play. Disassembled it and found nothing obvious.

Is the bushing just defective?

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The Mavic technology office uses Pedro's Street Anger which is effectively substance oil. The best way to figure out if your Mavic freehub human is chance is to get carry of the greatest cog on your cassette and try to switch it inboard and outboard.


Thanks for the comment George. I am aware of that product but a cannot endorse it without thorough testing. The last thing that I want to is to recommend a product that could contribute to irreversible damage to the hub. If you have a hub that has excessive wear to the OD of the nose of the hub, then I think one of their oversize bushings would be the way to go. I hope that this info helps. -John


I have 4 sets of Mavic's #1-SLR, #2- 05 Crossmax, #3 Ksyrium, #4 09 R-sys all arin need of hub bushing replacement. I found a convesion kit from Hub Doctor on ebay ($43.50 delivered) which repalces the bushing with a sealed bearing, it looks like a good idea, I'm getting them next week.

jay lewis

I have Ksyrium Elite wheels and my free hubs went out at around 9 0r 10,000 miles . goimg to replace them my self.

Dress Shoes

It is the way they should have been designed from Mavic,they also sell pawls and replacement nylon bushings that are better than the originals.

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it is a kit from the Hub-Doctor,basically replaces that crappy nylon bushing with a sealed ceramic bearing and now the freehub rolls on the ceramic bearing on one end and the two outboard bearings. It is the way they should have been designed from Mavic,they also sell pawls and replacement nylon bushings that are better than the originals.


Regarding Mavic freehub problems-there is a simple solution to all your problems and it will make your wheels run smoother and gets rid of the low-tech nylon bushing. it is a kit from the Hub-Doctor,basically replaces that crappy nylon bushing with a sealed ceramic bearing and now the freehub rolls on the ceramic bearing on one end and the two outboard bearings. It is the way they should have been designed from Mavic,they also sell pawls and replacement nylon bushings that are better than the originals.

Lester @ Adult Tricycle

I din't realize the exact root cause until I read this post. Thanks for the info!

joop perfume

The rest of my rear wheel (rim and spokes) are still cool and what I'd like to know is what replacement hub can I get to rebuild the wheel onto?


Any advice on what to do about a seized Mavic freehub. I have Ksyrium Elite wheels and all of a sudden I lost the ability to coast. I have tried to get the freehub off to clean and service it but after dismantling everything I cant shift it. I removed the axle but still cant move the freehub in any direction. Any ideas welcome.


forgot to mention that you remove your existing free hub body, remove the nylon bushing as shown above and replace with the oversize bushing. Use mineral oil as indicated. My e-bay vendor sent very good instructions so it was a piece of cake.
It sounds like 'worked' above may not have pushed the bushing far enough into the free hub body. I have installed one oversize bushing previously and it worked tits.


i have mavic crossmax slr rims/hubs and have worn the hub down and am on my second oversize bushing. There are at least two vendors on e-bay. Most sell a .003 oversize bushings but they can also custom make to fit your condition. Had the local bike shop contact Mavic to repair/replace the worn hub and the want $242 then add shipping to east coast and back and you are probably close to $300. Not a good option when you can buy a NEW replacement Mavic Crosstrail for about the same price. Try the o/s bushing on e-bay. They are only $12 which includes shipping. Good Luck

Disfuncion Erectil

>Why did this thing wear out so quickly?

I know the answer to this question. Suffice it to learn the mechanics a bit to get rid of this kind of sensationalism.

t-shirt xmen

I have 2 Mavic Ksyrium or Crossmax wheels on my truck and it's working great. Thanks for sharing with us


I have a Crosstrail Disc and I read that there is some kind of Shimano-Mavic freehub body? I am pretty sure I need a new one. Can you shed some more light on this please? Like where to buy one? Thanks!


Hey there- So I ordered a set of replacement bushings from a vendor on ebay and installed it today (standard size). However and for whatever reason, I can't get the freehub body to sit all the way down the nose. It slides down about 3/4 way and stops, i wiggle it and nothing happens. I don't want to force it either and am left just really frustrated.

Any advice besides buying a new fhb? Thanks!


Hi there,

On my last ride down some single track I heard what I believe is known as the dreaded 'squeal-of-death'. Upon closer investigation it appears that my Mavic Crossmax XL rear hub has finally packed-up after ±2500km (from what I read).
I've spoken to my LBS and apparently I can change the pawls, but I'm still not convinced that that will solve the basic problem of the bushing that's worn in the hub itself.

The rest of my rear wheel (rim and spokes) are still cool and what I'd like to know is what replacement hub can I get to rebuild the wheel onto?
Is this advisable or should I just fork out the cash for a new wheel?

Thanks for all the advice.


Hello Neal,
It's the same technique to remove the spindle... It just might need a tap from the drive-side to remove it. I hope that this info helps. Thanks for writing! -John

Neal Kaufman

I have a pair of Crossmax SX (2008) with a shot free wheel. How in the heck do I get the cassette spindle off? I don't think it does. Sure, with other Mavic's you stick the 10 in one side and the 5 in the other. Does tis mean I have to buy a whole new rear wheel? Older Mavics I have had lasted many years of many miles. Due to remote work locations these SX's were hardly ridden over the past year. I bought the 08's on sale in 09. Mavic is not the quality they once were, pro-class or not.

Michael Dupe

I have a near new Cannondale Six with Mavic Ksyrium wheels. I just came back from a long ride where, on downhill sections while freewheeling and braking, there was massive, massive squealing. People going the other way were looking at me. It sounded like a siren. At first I thought it was brakes and backed them off at the adjuster, but realised it happened when not braking too but always downhill. A friend rode along and said he thought my chain was behaving oddly. Could not solve it...
After reading this thread I am off to the bike shop that sold it to me. I will begin my asking them to check the freeweel hub! Thanks for the posts.

L. Shumway

I have a pair of Mavic Ksyrium TDF ( Ltd. Edition Tour de France) wheels with 30,000 miles on the original free hub and a pair of Mavic Ksyrium ES wheels with 15,000 on the original free hub.Replace the pawls and seal at about 7,000 miles, although they always have looked and worked fine. Use a table spoon of 20-40 motor oil for lube. This eliminates pawl noise and noise equals wear.

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All of this being said, the easiest way to determine if your Mavic freehub body is shot is to grab hold of the largest cog on your cassette and try to move it inboard and outboard. There shouldn't be any noticeable play.


After 16,000 miles on my Ksyrium SL wheelset, I discovered the wiggle and worn nylon bushing. Thanks for the great writeup and videos!

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For unarticulated wheels, climbing obstacles will cause the body of the vehicle to rotate. If the rotation angle is too high, the vehicle will become statically unstable and tip over. At high speeds, a vehicle can become dynamically unstable, able to be tipped over by an obstacle smaller than its static stability limit. Without articulation, this can be an impossible position from which to recover.

For front-to-back stability, the maximum height of an obstacle which an unarticulated wheeled vehicle can climb is a function of the wheelbase and the horizontal and vertical position of the center of mass (CM).

Jeroen Bosboom

Hi Rogue,
To convert the FTS, FTS-L and FTS-X hubs to a true ball bearing only system we offer the HubDoctor Pro (patent pending). The advantage of the kit is that any reasonable do it your self mechanic can follow the step by step instruction to install it and eliminate the plastic to aluminum wear point in the hub. The kit consists of an 6061-T6 adapter much like a headset which presses into the back of the freehub (Shimano or Campy) body. The hybrid ceramic (Si3N4) full complement ball bearing is pressed in and fitted over the hub. A tool is included to get the slip fit adjusted. The outer hybrid ceramic bearing (Si3N4) is included as are instructions. A special wiper seal keeps gunk out of the hub cavity behind the freehub. This kit fits into the space where the old seal was installed. Also great for saving worn out hubs since the inner bearing rests behind the worn surface. It weighs only 12 grams for a total gain of ~10 grams since the plastic bushing and old seal is removed. The cost pretty reasonable at $43.50 on ebay (jbosboom seller) or mtbr.com. Sorry to make an add out of this posting but we are confident it will help a great many riders.
Thanks, Jeroen


hi Rogue, nice video on the the freehub replacement. I just had mine serviced new barings freehubs the works. I could not figure out why the free hub was running so badly when I was not pedaling.....tuns out the shop filled the whole thing up with grease !. I will change the shop and do my own service now. Thanks for a great site.

moog bushings

we make a replacement bushing as well. good luck

Curtis Lue Sue

Hi, great site with lots of info.
Got part numbers for pawls , hub body and seal
but not for pawl springs, could you please supply
this number and if possible where it can be purchased.


you can now get replacement bushings. www.diymtb.com.au
I dont know what they are like but will post after I install them


Would using the Morningstar "FreeHub Buddy" to flush the thing out with mineral oil and help to minimize the wear on that nylon bushing?
Not even sure if the "Buddy" will fit correctly in the Mavic Freehub.


I have just ordered the part from a guy in Ebay... He mouled it hiself and seems to have success as there is only good review against his ebay profile... Will try and let you know...


To clarify,
Not only does the bushing wear but the hub itself wears...
ever notice when installing a new freehub from mavic that it still has play..
our service takes care of this problem...


The bushing is not one with the hub and can be replaced and improved...
Custom made mavic bushings..
Send us your Mavic hub or wheel and we will make you a custom sized, oil impregnated bushing to take up the slop in your freehub body bushing....
The service will run 89.99 incl parts and labor...
This bushing runs cooler
It also weeps its own oil to lubricate the interface ( less maint )
We size each bushing to your hub so the fit is even tighter than a new freehub from Mavic.
why replace your freehub with a new one from Mavic that doesn't solve the problem..
Or in some cases customers are looking at a new hub or even a new wheel considering Mavic won't sell you just a hub...
This fix is a fraction of common factory replacements and lengthens the life of your wheel..
Contact [email protected]


The pawls/freehub on my Crossmax 29er lasted about 2000 miles. Mavic replaced the entire wheel under warranty. Same problem with the replacement but this time after ~400 miles. Before the replacement broke, I did notice the play in the freehub but I didn't know what it meant. I guess I'll buy a spare freehub and pawls so I don't have to wait so long for the Mavic parts to arrive at my LBS. These wheels just cost too much to replace (only had them a year).


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Hub Doctor

Hi All

I just read about your Mavic rear hub issue. The problem (as you know)with your hub is that the inner freehub bushing has worn out. The noise is caused by the harmonics of the freehub\bushing hitting the axle housing. Until now the only solution was to buy a new freehub from Mavic. I've developed a bearing replacement kit that duplicates the material, fit and function of the worn bushing and you get the outer ball bearing as well. It's called the Mavic Hub Doctor. I'll have my website launched soon (hubdoctor.com) but for now you can purchase it on MTBR, roadbikereview and craigslist (orange county) and Ebay or contact me at [email protected]. Here's a video on how to open the rear hub, http://www.5min.com/Video/How-to-Overhaul-a-Mavic-Free-Hub-66770606 The hub is fully rebuildable ( provided that the ratched teeth are ok )and it's cost effective at only $22 shipped! [email protected]




Someone sells a nylon bushing that replaces the stock one on the free hub. Plus they make a .003 oversize version to make up for some hub wear on higher mileage wheelsets like mine. Which makes them tighter then a new replacement free hub. Im not sure if they have a email address or not, i found them on ebay by searching mavic hub.

i installed one and instaltion was a snap and it has been working great for 200 miles so far.

diego ramiro jr

Hi John,
I race this year at Sea Otter Classic Xcountry and i notice on the trails my front Mavic Crossmax right side a noise/griding sounds,once i got home i check it and there a play on it,it look like the bearing is worn out any part#



Hi Ray, Not sure, I took the wheel into my local shop (where I purchased them) and the lads pulled the rear wheel down, re packed and reset the springs. All fine now. I guess they would purchase the parts from the importer in Australia.


Where are you guys buying your Mavic parts from?


Great Info, I have a set of Elite's that are having the free hub movement. I thought it was due the mechanic having dropped the springs and not fitted all of them when I purchased the wheels. I will have the boy's check the nylon bush (600km old). It looks like I'm up for a new hub.


Hello Glenn,
I hope that this message finds you well. The pin-wrench is for side play adjustment only. You should have received the tool with the wheels when you bought them.
You have to remove the endcap of the axle on the non-drive side. The is done by simply pulling it off by hand. Once removed, you will see that you will then have access to the larger hex "bolt". Check out my quick YouTube videos on my website for a visual.
I hope that this info helps. Thanks for writing! -John

Glenn Davis

Have an Es rear wheel that I needs a freehub change. However, these are not a simple pair of hex wrenches like the Elite hub. The drive-side is the hex wrench. But, the non-drive-side appears to require a pin wrench. Is this correct? If so, is this a Mavic specific pin wrench or a standard spacing? Thanks.

robert smith

wow.I cant belive so many people are having the same problem as me!!!I'd been getting the horrible noise at high speeds,so i pulled it all apart and found that the metal has worn as well as the nylon bush!! Does this mean throwing the whole wheel in the bin?? the freehubs here in england cost £50 each,allot to spend to find out that its not gonna sole the problem....ANY IDEAS >>>PLEASE!!!!!

Mike W

I've certainly had the problems described on the failure of the pawls on the Mavic Crossmax wheels. Freehubs need to be replaced as a result of damage due to small metal grit from failed pawls. Problem is worse for bigger riders who pedal hard. My wife has never worn out a mavic wheel, and we both ride in the same conditions, so its not the dust/dirt entering the freehub body.

Regarding Marcus post on the failure of the Mavic Pawls on the Crossmax wheels. He recommends
1. Buy a set of the 2007 pawls (#32430301)- Harder material (stainless steel, will/should not chip).

These are not always that easy to come by. I found a source, however. Email Andrew at http://www.yellowjersey.org/ if you can't find the pawls at a local bike shop. He can get them.


Hello, I just found your site searching for Mavic info. I have had a set of xmax sl wheels for about two years and have had excellent luck. I do try to clean freehub every 400 miles or so but after reading about the problems I plan to do my maintenance more often.

I am trying to find a source for replacement parts, ie,pawls,springs,freehub,seals,etc.

Mike, you did a great job machining a bush to try out. I will be looking forward to your commments on wear and fit. Are you still using the original rubber seal?

What do you think of using a sealed ball bearing to replace the oem nylon bushing?


Well, I machined my bronze bushing yesterday.. I bought a standard flanged bushing from Mcmaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com). I selected one designed for a 3/4" shaft. The outside diameter of the bushing was large enough that I had to machine it down to fit in the freehub body. Once I machined the OD down and cut it to length, I pressed it into the freehub body. I then chucked the whole body into the lathe and cut the ID down to 25.1mm. It fits /works parfectly now- seems like less drag than the old nylon bushing. We'll see how long it lasts.


Wow, I'm new to the whole "crappy freehub" discussion on Mavic wheels.. I'm glad I'm not the only one having problems. My freehub has gotten so loose that my chain won't stay in one place in my cogset anymore. Rather than dishing out $70 for a new freehub, I'm going to do some experimenting with my Crossmax XLs (since I now consider them junk). I took the freehub body apart. The yellow nylon bushing is snapped into the back of the freehub (there's a small undercut in the outermost edge of the body that holds it in). I'm pretty sure the plastic bushing is made by Igus in Germany. The color is identical to their "Iglide" material. Anyway, I snapped it out. I measured the bore in the freehub body to be 27.2mm. I plan to press in an old-fashoned oilite bronze bushing in it's place, chuck the whole freehub body in the lathe and turn the inside down to a precise 25.0mm. The oilite shouldn't wear nearly as fast as the yellow nylon, and it should self-lubricate as well. I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes...


I just wanted to comment on the Mavic Ksyrium ES freehub. I have these wheels for almost a year. The freehub is getting noisier. I cycle only on the weekend (100 - 120 miles per weekend), so I have about 4000 miles on them. The amazing thing is that my cycling female friend who weighs about 100 lbs has about 2000 miles on her Ksyrium ES wheels and the freehub failed. I was coasting behind her downhill to troubleshoot the awful high pitch noise she thought was coming from her brakes. I must say that this problem can be dangerous. When it happened while at about 40 miles/hr speed she started fish-tailing and almost lost it. I'm surprised that Mavic is not proactive in addressing the consequences of this freehub locking up when you least expect and at high speeds. Well, perhaps no one sued them yet.


My Ksyrium ES w/4K km, and very little wet riding, developed the DS yesterday. We shall see how long the clean and re-lube lasts...other wise adios MAVIC. My previous Ksyrium SSL's never had any problems for over 40K km of all weather riding.

Dirk C.

For information (including pictures) on breaking down and cleaning Mavic hubs go this this site that I ran across;



tried using stronger pawl springs, but same problem again, obviously not the springs(made a cool noise though), put original springs back in. must be a problem with the drive chain after all...going to replace rear cassette, chain and middle ring on the front, hopefully that will do the trick.
great blog by the way, cheers.


recently bought an unused mavic crossland sup(05?) rear wheel and on the very first ride the freehub slipped(pretty sure the drive train is fine) , this occured during climbing at maximum effort and sudden acceleration on the flat. disassembled the freehub and all looked good, so got to wondering what the problem could be...thought maybe the spings that provide the 'spring' for the pawls are too soft; will stronger springs provide for a better initial engagement of the pawls allowing them to stay engaged during periods of maximum torque or just wear-out my freehub quicker? any ideas would be much appreciated?
cheers in advance


I had the freehub replaced for cassette play. The wheel has significant drag even though it seems to be assembled and serviced correctly according to the Mavic service manual. Needless to say, local mechanic is scratching his head. Any thoughts?

Mike Mann

I have a 2006 Giant Anthem with death squeal in the free hub, and a lot of play. So I took it to my friendly dealer and he replaced the hub with a brand new one. Instant Death Squeal.... much louder than the old one, which after reading this post, I would attribute to stronger pawls in the new hub perhaps..........

Perhaps it didn't get lubed........with all the suggestions on line, I'll get it apart tomorrow and see what I can do.

Thanks for all the help.


Nick W.


Love to find Mavic tidbits. Does anyone have a Mavic freehub for the Mavic 571 hub; mine has the 9-spline 'rounded' Mavic cut. I'm looking for the 9-spline Hyperglide cut (more rectangular).
Alternatively, I'm looking for Mavic cogs (9-spline, round cut) in any size greater than 22T.
thanks a million,
Nick W.


Thanks for the comment becknerized. Let's hope that these improvements increase the life of the bushing. -John


this is from cyclingnews.com

Mavic has revamped its mountain bike wheelsets for 2007 with virtually zero carryover from the '06 catalog. A number of general improvements grace the entire line, including key improvements to the freehub internals. Previous FTS-L freehub bodies were somewhat notorious for seal drag and requiring frequent maintenance. According to Mavic Marketing Communication Manager Sean Sullivan, the crux of the issue was not contamination from outside, but rather buildup of metallic 'dust' from within as the somewhat soft pawls wore and broke down the lubricating oil. The updated FTS-X system utilizes new pawls made of harder material which are said to produce substantially less particulate, and a new freehub body seal cuts down on friction. Sadly, Mavic continues to use a bushing on the inboard side of the freehub body (made of fancy-sounding 'Iglidur') instead of a bearing, but insists its current approach is still the best way to go.


hello. i have mavic sl 2005 mtb wheels do i needs a spacer on my freehub body i run a 9 speed xtr m970 casette. i woz told there needs to be one on there but i never got one with my wheels


Wow...I thought it was just me but appearantly this is something all Ksyrium riders face sooner or later. Lately I experienced the 'skipping' problem, frustrating phenomenon. How do I remove the freehub? I ride Ksyrium Elite's, from 2001 or so. I got to the point where I removed the opposite side bearing covers but seem to get stuck now.
I can see a washer, about size 18 (EUR) but no tool fits this. A I supposed to hold this washer (somehow) and turn one way or the other with the axle?


Hello Paul,
Sounds like something is wrong... Being new, that hub should be spinning smooth in the truing stand. You should not be able to feel the pawls, just hear them. Sounds like a bearing/race/cone issue... either in the freehub or the hub... Hope that this info helps. Thanks for writing! -John



Great site. Ran across it while looking for info on freehubs. Have a quick question I was hoping you'd lend your experience to.

Just bought a new set of Mavic OPs with Ultegra hubs. Had the back wheel on the truing stand to true it up a little tighter, and noticed a rumbling sound when I spin the wheel. Backed the cones off to loosen them considerably, and the rumble is still there (feels like rocks when I hold the arms of the truing stand), so I think it is coming from the freehub body. Is this the feeling/sound that comes from the pawls moving over the ratchets? Should I remove and re-oil the freehub body, even though new, or is this all good.

Thanks, and keep up the good work



Hi John,

Thanks for the info! Unfortunately i've already replaced the freehub body and there's still play :( it seems the grit actually wore down the hub body where the bushing mounts to. So I've been told I need a new hub shell! :( That's why i was thinking of removing the bushing and replacing it with a bushing that has a smaller ID (inned diameter) so it will fit snugger on the hub shell - Phil


Hello Dan-
Thanks for your kind words! Removing the bushing is really not an option... Sounds like all that you need to do is get a replacement freehub body. It's going to set you back around $60.00 for the freehub body itself. I hope that this info helps! Thanks for writing! -John


Rogue, great site! I was searching for the Mavic bushing freehub problem on Google and came across your site. I have let mine go and now my hub body is worn from grit getting in. Is there any way of salvaging this wheel? I see above people have discussed removing the bushing from the freehub body; not possible? In theory, If I can remove the bushing, I can get a bushing made to fit my (now worn) hub shell. Thoughts?


just 1 more note on the mavic hubs, the new hubs also have a teflon tape on the threaded end of the axle, good for 7 or 8 uses. It seems that the axles unscrew them selves causing faster wear on the nylon bushing. I broke a pawl, opened up the hub, cleaned it out,lubed it with shimano mineral oil and put it together. continued to ride for a month, tonight I went to replace the pawl and the nylon bushing was toast. I believe it was a combo of, 1) loose axle, 2) broken pawl continued to deteriorate adding powdered metal and shavings to the oil,(confirmed by the grey paste that was coating all internals),3)old seal either not lubed enough ,or again the paste
According to Mavic , the new hub body, pawls and seal along with loctite on the axle should cover it. the seal is slicker, the pawls are thicker and stronger


Re: mavic crossmax freehubs. I suffered the same fast decent "death squeal" from the freehub, accompanied by masive chain suck. I suspect that this is caused by wear on the nylon bushing causing friction between the seal and the free hub body. I seem to have solved the problem by using a slightly thicker washer between the inner and outer bearings. Just waiting for the side effects to emerge!!


Hello Marcus,
Thanks for taking the time to write and for your patience with my reply.
I haven't had the opportunity to work with or install the BETD link just yet. It is interesting though. I would need more info before I make a recommendation, but ultimately, I like to reserve direct recommendations only for items that I have experience with (otherwise, I'd be no different than any other bike mechanic with an opinion.) It is true that it would probably void the warranty (but if you do the installation yourself, you could keep the original link and reinstall it if you have a warranty situation with another part of the frame...) I would like to comment on this at more length in a future podcast if you don't mind. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks again for writing and for your kind words.




Love the web site. I have gotten some really good info and appreciate this forum.

Got a question for you out there:

Has anyone ever installed or used a BETD link to increase your travel on a Specialized full suspension bike? I am considering it for my StumpJumper. I know that it will affect the warranty. It will also require more air pressure in my rear shock as well as change the geometry, but I am curious what you think about getting a link that has these two settings; 1 at 120 mm and the 2nd at 150 mm. It seems like it might be a nice feature, and since they make the link it can’t be that crazy? Your thoughts on this question? My feelings are that I would want to set it at the longer travel on certain rides and allow for 30% sag, so that I sit a bit more into the travel stroke if in the longer travel setting. That way I could ideally control the change in geometry to some degree.

Is this a link you would ever consider purchasing or using? Any horror stories or experience with this?


I have some 2005 Crossmax SL wheels (I think the hub is very similar to the Ksyrium wheel hubs mentioned) and I have been trying get a new rear axle for it and just have no luck. Do you know what the part number would be? It probably is actually two part numbers since there are two pieces to the axle, one screws into the other. The half from the freehub side broke off when I was tightening it (stupid mistake that I will not repeat again). Do you know where one can obtain parts for Mavic hubs? More specifically for the Crossmax? Any help you can provide my in tracking down this part would be greatly appreciated.


My 2002 Ksyrium SSL wheels were doing the "death squeal" on fast descents, I had disassembled and cleaned the freehub at least twice in the last year, and the problem would diminish, but come back. I read the blog, bought a new freehub and had to put up with the wrench dissing me as a home mechanic, installed the new freehub and the wheel runs as new. THANK YOU!


Any idea what the inner diameter of the nylon bushing should be? Is that the best way to tell if it is worn?


Ok. I've performed the cleaning of the FTS-L free hub body. Clean it out thoroughly and used the pedros road rage to re-lube all of the relevant parts mentioned in the Mavic article (on the Mavic website). I haven't test ridden my bike yet to see if the noise is still there. If it is I'm going to look into getting a new FTS-L free hub assembly from excel sports in boulder CO. My question is will the 2002 version of the FTS-L free hub assembly work with 2000 rear campy style kysrium SSC SL wheel? The website specifically states that the assembly is for the 2002 version of the wheel. Thanks.


I have a pair of the mavic SSC SL's from around 2000. Do you guys happen to have a contact number for Mavic USA? I've got a grinding noise coming from my rear wheel... The whole bike vibrates when I backpedal at > 30 mph. I'm assuming it's the FTS-L free hub body. Only here the noise at high speed though, but that's not the time to be hearing strange noises from the drivetrain ;) If anyone happens to have the phone number for Mavic USA that would be great. Thx.


Crossmax XL's

If your cassette hub body has ever skipped a pawl, remove and inspect for small metal shaving, these will help chew up the hub spindle and piss you off.

Here is the fix for all us 2006 and down owners:

1. Buy a set of the 2007 pawls (#32430301)- Harder material (stainless steel, will/should not chip).

2. Buy a new cassette hub body (#M40580) (start fresh)

3. Most important! Buy the new seal (#99500001)! They claim this is the problem, it let's dirt in the hub and this creates a sand paper effect. The big concern is the nylon bushing built on the hub cassette body will grind (w/dirt) away at the hub shaft creating play, thus ruining it!

I think its the seal and soft pawls.

4. Use the Mavic Mineral Oil(I read Pedros Road Rage will work also).


Just to re-cap, there is no way of just purchasing the white nylon bushing? No other company sells this? You have to buy a whole new free body hub? If so how much do they run and can you recommend a good site to buy the hub and and new harder pawls?

Appreciate all the info you have provided.



If it is I have one I can sell you ;-)

Tim Vickroy

So is M40592 the correct part for the road wheelset? I have a set of 2002 Ksyrium SSC SL wheels with this problem. Will this be the correct replacement freehub body? Thanks.


You beat me to the punch skinl19... Glad you figured it out. Thanks for writing! -John


Never mind, I found the answer. I have the road freehub , the MTB is part number M40580 in case anyone else needs one.


I was changing the freehub on my 2004 Crossmax SL and have a 2006 Freehub mavic part M40592, but it is slightly longer than my old one so that the cassette does not tighten. I thought it was for the Crossmax as well. Do I have to find a different freehub or are there spacers or something else wrong? Thanks

Richard Cabezza

"How do I remove my Mavic Ksyrium ES freehub body?"

With your fingers trust me it's very easy just make sure you don't loose the 2 springs for each paw, or the small washer between the 2 drive side bearings.


How do I remove my Mavic Ksyrium ES freehub body?


Hello Dan,
I doubt that there's any truth in that. That's not to say that it wouldn't work... My concern would be any reaction it might have with any of the seals, etc...Mavic has recommended for years the use of "mineral oil" as a lubricant for the freehub body/pawls. This being said, there are many viscosities of mineral oil. I've been told by the folks at the Mavic USA tech department that they use Pedros Road Rage, which is a med-to-light weight mineral oil based lubricant. I can vouch that the Road Rage works well.
Because of the nature of the mineral oil, it's very difficult to use too much...it will just drain. I hope that this info helps. Thanks for your comment! -John

Dan Martin

John: I was told by a local bike shop that Mavic uses a snythetic motor oil for lubricant....is thier truth to this....can to much oil be used....that is a great illistration of a comparison of good and bad....



Hello Miss T:
Thanks for visiting my blog and for writing. I'll attempt to resolve your issue with the info that you provided...
Being "older Crossmax SL's", when you removed the freehub body to apply the mineral oil, did the freehub body look like the one's pictured in this post (did it have the yellowish bushing) or a cartridge bearing? If it had the bushing, I've seen them last only one season of hard riding... It's very difficult to see any wear because what wears is the internal nylon bushing...
You also need to make sure that you installed all of you proper spacers when you installed the new cassette...I've seen that happen before. I hope that this info helps. Feel free to write if you have any other questions. -John

miss t

hi- i just re-mineral-oiled the freehub assembly of an older pair of xmax sl. the cassette has the play you are speaking of, yet the it seems the play is coming from the body itself, ie, perhaps the body being worn out? the cassette is new this summer. but the body doesn't look noticably worn. how long/many miles do you think the body will last?


Thanks for all of your comments...
Dave: Mavic USA usually has them in stock...
Divine: I hear ya brother... The wheels do work well though...they just don't have the life span that I like to see ...
Karl: The only option is a standard replacement freehub body from Mavic. I have no issues with any other part of the wheels. You should be good for thousands of miles...
Kipp: It could very well be the freehub skiping... It might just need cleaning...


Thanks for the info! this may have been just what I was looking for...and didnt know it. I have around 2000 miles on my Ksyrium Elites. I noticed a drag effect and the wheels do not coast (hand spinning) as they used to. Also, there is a seldom "crack" or "pop" noise and the drivetrain skips forward a notch. i thought this was a chain or cassette issue and replaced them...still happens. Is this the freehub body skipping?



i have this problem..
if i replace freehub, how can i prevent this or lenghten the life of the hub. my wheels have 2000 miles on them and rode in rain once about 50 miles, rest on good roads.
also does anyone make replacements that have bearings like the old ones?


divine gear

this is why i'm getting away from mavic. rogue is so right. they initially made this stuff for pros who would only use it for a season and dump it. do you really think that the pros would deal with such a thing? no. they get new crap for the new season. and then we think its so cool, and pick it up, and we are left holding the bag.

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